Arabian Bliss: Oman

Smooth touch down in the quaint airport of Muscat, which is drastically different from the hustle-bustle of DXB. The energy is calmer and the people friendlier which puts me immediately at ease. Muscat is much smaller and glitz-free compared to it's neighbor, Dubai. No futuristic skyscrapers here; all the buildings are built with traditional white-washed domes or arabesque windows. Omani men are dressed in the traditional white robe with a colorful turban and women are veiled and dressed in black robes with decorative borders - their version of fashion statement (Omanis may like to stick to their traditions in terms of their clothing but they are actually very progressive for the region. Its government has three female ministers, women are allowed to drive and the people enjoy a drink now and then). The uniformity of the city and its people's disdain for hyper-materialism is immensely refreshing.

Oman is an oil-based country and that's $1.2 per gallon!

Cheaper than a pack of gum.

Chedi picks us up with cold towels & icy Evian prepared;

I'm already relaxed.

What to bring: Sunscreen, cardigan and pants (for crazy indoor A/Cs and the Grand Mosque), sunscreen, scarf (use as veil) and more sunscreen.

We finished three bottles in a week.

Arabian sun is no joke!

Contemporary Arabia Chic
We spent seven nights in Muscat, splitting our stay between two resorts. First resort was the Chedi, which is part of the GHM luxury group and its style is known to be minimal and luxurious.

(Lobby)
visitors are graced by beautiful hanging lamps under a tented roof

The resort's perfectly manicured lawn and minimalistic architecture blends in peacefully with the clear blue Arabian sky and the royal blue sea. The environment is calm and blissful but what really makes it worth staying is its service. Every staff is diligent and attentive.

Two pools available. This one by the beach is for 18+

The food at the Chedi is also fantastic. Their main restaurant by the lobby has an open pastry kitchen at the entrance and there's nothing more heavenly than smelling fresh-baked pastries every morning. I also had one of the best waffle and eggs benedict ever here.

Bye bye beach diet

dining under Baccarat-lit sky

Besides the sinful pastries at your disposal, everyone must try the lemon mint. It is simply the best creation made to beat the desert heat. It's simply fresh mint, lemonade and ice blended together.

The Chedi was my favorite resort among the two. It is simply more refined and cozy. However, it does have its own faults, which is its beach; it was not as well-maintained. Shangri-la, on the other hand, is blessed with a magnificent beach.

Arabia Chic
The Shangri-la Barr Al Jissah hotel is nestled between earthy-red mountains and the sea at the Al Jissah beach. The resort itself is gigantic and consists of three hotels, Al Waha (best for families), Al Bandar (suitable for groups) and Al Husn (most private hotel; no minors under 18 allowed). We choose to stay at the Al Husn to escape the people and the moment we walked into our room we knew we made the right choice. Al Husn residents are the only ones with access to the magnificent turquoise cove.

Al Husn's private cove

The resort style is more "palace style", this translates into glitz, gold and patterns. I personally found it visually exhausting and borderline tacky. The resort was also too big. Al Husn resident had access to all the other hotel's facilities but we never bothered leaving the hotel. At Al Husn, you also have daily complimentary afternoon tea (15:45-16:45), where you can snack on some delicious scones and chocolate fondue, and they also offer complimentary canopies and drinks from 18:00-19:00. Mini bar in the hotel is also complimentary but breakfast buffet not so complimentary-- it'll cost you a wopping $30 (approx) per head. Besides the usual beach resort facilities, it had a spa village and gym that was a 5-minute buggy ride away and also had a Heritage Village, which is basically a small shopping center.

camel rides available at Al Bandar

half a kilometer of lazy river linking Al Waha & Al Bandar

The (rich-girl?) souq
In a world where multi-national brands dominate people's lives, it's always hard to find unique pieces to add to your home/wardrobe. Therefore, I always save up before my travels so that I can pick up some unique pieces of accessories/art/antique that I stumble across. The Muttra souq is along the Corniche (below), which is beautiful during sunset.

The Muttra souq is a treasure chest filled with pink-hued rubies, emeralds, dark blue sapphires, gold and silver. However, the souq is not cheap, so if you're expecting Bangkok-Chatuchak-market prices, you're in the wrong place. Oh, did I mention the souq takes credit card? Bring yours.

All the precious stones making me dizzy

After some cringing, I bought a hand-made mother of pearl clutch
and hand-woven double-plated sterling silver clutch.

And a pink ruby and emerald necklace

My favorite shops are the Damascus Technical Handicraft center (selling beautiful wooden furniture and mother-of-pearl boxes) and the Ali Baba Gift Town (a store stuffed with treasures, from antique coins to hand-made silver accessories to colorful glass lamps).  Muscat was also once a prominent trading port, hence antique collectors can find anything from biblical coins to Roman daggers to 18th century clocks.

I could easily spend a day at Ali Baba

Damascus Technical's beautiful handcrafted boxes

Carpets and lamps hanging together on the roof of Ali baba

The Shatoosh
While browsing in a pashmina store, I was pulled over by its shopkeeper into an attic to inspect Persian carpets. Seeing that I was not interested in the carpets, the shopkeeper props open a suitcase and displays an array of solid-color pashminas. The moment I touched them, I knew that these were very very special pashminas; they were simply the softest and most delicate things I have ever touched, EVER. Mr. Shopkeeper then whispers: "Ma'am, you like shatoosh? Antelope hair, very nice." Not realizing what it was, I gawped at the price tag and left swiftly. Still fascinated by this delicate textile, I decided to do some research that evening. Turns out shatoosh is as illegal as ivory and is made by Tibetan antelopes. They were over-poached during the 80s and now on the brink of extinction. Back then, a shatoosh could easily sell between $2000 to $15,000 (jaw-drop) and was worth more than gold! The story of the shatoosh is that its thickness is 1/3 of human hair, and it is so soft that a whole scarf can fit through a ring.
I obviously did not purchase the product but wonder why do all beautiful things in this world carry guilt?


Foodie Alert! 
The sea is a vital part of the Omani's life and diet, so expect plenty of fresh seafood along with fresh bread and delicious mezze. For something chic, the Chedi's The Beach Restaurant is a fantastic outdoor location for dinner. For something more grimmy (and delicious), Turkish House is the place. Portions are big, so bring your appetite.

fresh baked bread everywhere in Oman

grilled calamary with garlic mayo and fries, on bread

Another sweet spot is Kargeen Cafe. Depending on the weather, you can choose to sit outdoors under the star-lit sky or inside a carpeted cottage house (with A/C). (Muscat restaurants review here)

A fantastic bread stuffed with cheese, olive and tomato.

Shuwa, is a traditional Omani dish eaten during celebrations.

The meat is marinated with vinegar and spices, then wrapped in banana leaves

and cooked in the earth for more than a day.

During this trip I've also developed a newfound obsession with dates stuffed with almonds and Omani coffee, which is coffee blended with a variety of herbs to give it a sour-y yet fragrant taste.

These tiny little things are packed with vitamin-B, iron and fiber.

Beyond the resort
The fantastic thing about Oman is that you have options outside of the resort. Do visit the Bayt Al Zubair museum for a little culture (OMR 2 for entry/person). The gallery across the museum also has contemporary Arabic art that is worth visiting. The Grand Mosque should no-doubt be on every visitor's list. And here's why:

The main prayer hall's stunning chandelier and dome

And there is the world's largest Persian carpet. 

More chandelier-studded ceiling

look at the details!

I'd recommend a day trip to Wadi Shab for the adventurous travelistas. It is a beautiful desert oasis only 1.5 hour away from Muscat. My fear of height prevented us from realizing this trip because you have to cliff jump into the pristine cove.

Maybe I'll be brave enough next time...

Oman is a true gem in the Middle East region and I encourage everyone interested in the region to visit it. I was pleasantly surprised by this peaceful little country and will definitely be visiting again. For travelistas who wish to escape the city completely, I recommend Six Senses Zighy Bay, where you can paraglide into the resort! (detail account of the resort by Johnny Jet here)

More travel posts coming up, so please keep checking-in!

"If our lives are dominated by a search for happiness, then perhaps few activities reveal as much about the dynamics of this quest-in all its ardour and paradoxes- than our travels." - Alain de Botton